Resistance Training

Advancing Training Load

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If you haven’t heard by now, the way you get better at doing harder things is to do harder things. If you are constantly playing it safe, building volume, and avoiding discomfort, well guess what – you’d better get used to doing the same routes over and over again. For those who want to advance,…

In-Depth: Stagger The Introduction of New Exercises

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Power Company Podcast 2: Resistance Training With Steve Bechtel

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I have had a great series of talks with top coach and climber Kris Hampton for his Power Company Podcast. Here is his second podcast ever, and my first on his show.   In Episode 2 I sit down with Steve Bechtel at his gym in Lander, Wyoming, to talk resistance training for climbers.  Yes,…

Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

In-Season Strength – Program Minimum

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These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…

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