Steve Bechtel

Why and How We Train the Core

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By Steve Bechtel   It’s no secret that I’m not a fan of “abs” in a workout, but I’m not a fan of not having a strong midsection, either. Confused? Me too. The core musculature can, and should, include about anything that is attached to the hips.  We include: The rectus abdominis The transversus abdominis…

Here is What We Do

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    By Steve Bechtel   It might seem funny, but my mom doesn’t really know what I do for a living. She knows we have a gym, and she knows I have written some books (she has them all, unopened), and she knows I travel around and “teach climbing.” I’m pretty sure she sees…

BLOG: Where Training Begins

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  By Steve Bechtel This is how it goes: You go to the gym with friends and you do some easy climbs and it’s fun. Then you try a harder one or two, and maybe almost do them. Your hands are sore that night and as you fall asleep you’re thinking of how you nearly…

In-Season Training (Power-Endurance Redpointing) – Weekends Only Climbing

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by Steve Bechtel The vast majority of climbers hold two things in common: They like to send. They have to work.   Short of taking a month off work every time you’re in peak shape, you’ve got to use a training plan that is going to get you to the weekend topped up of fitness…

Once More Unto The Breach

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By Steve Bechtel The last thing I want to think about again today is getting older. I don’t really like to talk about it and I certainly don’t like doing it. But for me, and probably for you, the worse alternative is getting old quickly. As I look at the people I grew up with,…

BLOG: Why Are We Training?

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  By Steve Bechtel If you drill down with anyone in the gym, the goal of their training session might very well be “to get tired and sore.” Their objective, of course, is greater sport performance or a change in the way their body looks and functions. But in training for a sport, and using…

BLOG: Pacing

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  By Steve Bechtel Last month, I had the pleasure of going to a big bouldering competition with no agenda except to watch my daughter climb, and then stay around for the open finals. It was a great event, and instead of focusing on the whole of the competition in the finals (who was topping,…

BLOG: Ask More Questions

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  By Steve Bechtel One of the hallmarks of a developing sport like rock climbing is the quest to optimize training for the sport. We look at how we fail to execute the tasks of the sport and then try to reduce the occurrence of those failures. We start with the simplest level of thinking…

Session Variability – Low-Hanging Fruit

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By Steve Bechtel When it comes to performance, every single climber I have ever known has struggled with plateaus. In fact, when someone I talk to seems to just keep getting better, I’m more inclined to punch them in the face than to hear another word of how fun it all is and how they…

BLOG: Five Lessons From Sergio Consuegra

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  By Steve Bechtel One of the hardest parts about sorting out training for climbing is getting out of the rut of your own thinking. All too often, we think that what we learned from our mentor or youth coach or high school climbing buddy was the be all, end all of training advice. I…

Optimizing First Gear: Training The Alactic Energy System

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By Steve Bechtel Anyone who has been in sports for very long has probably heard of the energy systems, or the ways in which our bodies supply energy. When we run down a road for an hour, we are producing energy from a different source than when we pick up a heavy barbell. And when…

Watch: Realistic Resolutions

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Many of us set ambitious New Year’s resolutions, but it is uncommon to see folks who actually achieve these big goals. Why is that? What is it that prevents us from following through on these things we want so badly? In this video Steve talks about setting realistic resolutions and how to break them down…

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