Strength Training
The Full Tilt Bouldering Plan
Tags: Advanced Training, Bouldering Training, full tilt, Intermediate Training, Strength Training
I wrote the Full Tilt Redpoint Plan for myself a decade ago. I had little kids, was super busy at the gym, and wanted to get the most out of my sport climbing with the limited time I had. Since then, we’ve programmed dozens of variations to this plan for climbers seeking all kinds of…
Juggernaut: An all-around climbing training plan
Tags: redpoint, Strength Training, Training Plans
This didn’t start out as most training plans do, it sort of “just happened” as I tried to maintain some level of fitness for climbing through a busy summer and early fall, and I wasn’t getting as much climbing as I’d like. I was only training a couple days most weeks and sometimes three, and…
In-Depth: The Single Leg Romanian Deadlift
Tags: in-depth video, Leg Strength, MOVE, Strength Training, Unilateral Training
The single leg RDL is a lower-load hip hinge that integrated a balance aspect into the lift. Appropriate for athletes that have stability needs or who can’t handle heavy loads, this exercise can be performed with dumbbells, a barbell, or, or preference, 2 kettlebells.
The Nugget Climbing Podcast: Episode 35
Tags: Endurance, High Low, podcast, Steven Dimmitt, Strength Training, The Nugget Climbing Podcast
This was one of the favorite podcasts I’ve (Steve) ever done. Steven is a top-notch interviewer and is leading mind in climbing training, which made it easy to talk for a long time. Luckily, Steven is also a good editor!
Weight Training: What it is and is not.
Tags: Strength Training, Weight Training
As humans, we all tend to use categories and observations about groups of things to understand the world.Puppies are cute. Fruits are sweet. Scarpa shoes are awesome. Categories. It gets dangerous. Women are crazy. People with dark skin are dangerous. Liberals are weak. We learn through our culture, our parents, our schools that individual observation…
In-Depth: General, Specific, and Developmental Exercise
Tags: Planning, Specificity, Strength Training
In-Depth: General, Specific, and Developmental Exercise from Climb Strong on Vimeo.
Variations on Integrated Strength
Tags: Circuits, Finger Strength, Hangboard, integrated strength, Strength Training
We’ve been training strength for a long time. For years, I struggled with just how to fit all the hangboard training, general strength training, and supporting exercises in a normal climber’s week. Many of us try to get by without the extra work, opting to just go climbing instead. A look at the big picture,…
“Two set of two?” and Other Questions
Tags: Expertise, Programming, Questions, Strength Training, Training Beta Podcast, Volume Training
by Steve Bechtel It’s funny the questions you get after an interview. At the end of 2015, I had the great honor of talking to Neely Quinn at Training Beta for a second time, and had a good chat with Kris Hampton for his new podcast that summer. The format is challenging and I felt…