Tactics

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #3 – Be Selfish

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Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 3 of…

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #2 – Get Creative

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Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 2 of…

Watch: Redpoint Tactics #1 – Have a Plan

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Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 1 of…

Watch: Program Design

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Many climbers and coaches think about designing a training cycle for themselves or an athlete and the first thing that comes to mind is the exercises they will program. This is intuitive and it makes sense why you would think to start there, but is completely backwards. In this video Steve lays out the four…

Watch: In-Season Fitness

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We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think in terms of…

Watch: Fundamentalist Programming

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In the last decade or so the climbing world has become absolutely saturated with information on training practices. It is super confusing to figure out how to train effectively and how to balance this with your climbing. Everyone wants to know what is the “best” way to train, and our answer has always been the…

Watch: Introduction to Drill Work

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Skill development is fundamental to progression in climbing. Too often, we focus on building stamina, physical strength, or power, when just learning to move better is the simple-and long lasting-solution. In this video, Climb Strong Coach Alex Bridgewater outlines methods for successful drill sessions. This is a very useful framework for coaches designing programs and…

Watch: Specificity or Simulation?

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Climbing is a remarkably diverse sport. The demands of a three move boulder problem are much different than those of a 20-hour alpine ridge traverse. As such, specificity should be a pillar of our training for rock climbing. At its most basic, specificity means training that simulates the sport. But it can be broken down…

Watch: Session Variability

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If you’re stuck, it’s probably not detailing out a more complex workout that is going to get you unstuck. It’s going to be doing simple things better. Most of us like the idea that each session we do is a developmental session. We seek out physical markers of having worked hard, such as sweat, weak…

Watch: Energy Systems

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In this video CS coach Joel Unema breaks down the three energy systems and how to approach training them. Movement is the basis of climbing up rocks, and in order to move, we need to supply our body with energy. Since any and all movement can occur at multiple speeds, in different directions, and over…

Watch: Climber Nutrition

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Figuring out how to fuel for your climbing, training, and recovery can be confusing. There is a ton of information out there and it is not uncommon to find multiple pieces of advice from well trained individuals that completely contradict each other. The truth is that nutrition is highly individualized and what works well for…

Watch: Realistic Resolutions

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Many of us set ambitious New Year’s resolutions, but it is uncommon to see folks who actually achieve these big goals. Why is that? What is it that prevents us from following through on these things we want so badly? In this video Steve talks about setting realistic resolutions and how to break them down…

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