Weight Training

Melding Strength and Power

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by Steve Bechtel Too frequently, we try to over-categorize our training. Long-time athletes and coaches learned about training for climbing by reading about and practicing training that came from other sports. We all understood that strength and power and endurance were different entities, some of us going so far as to train all of these…

Weight Training: What it is and is not.

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As humans, we all tend to use categories and observations about groups of things to understand the world.Puppies are cute. Fruits are sweet. Scarpa shoes are awesome. Categories. It gets dangerous. Women are crazy. People with dark skin are dangerous. Liberals are weak. We learn through our culture, our parents, our schools that individual observation…

Base Strength 1

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When I say base, I mean base. This plan is a 4-week repeatable plan that is aimed at climbers who are coming off a layoff or who have not done any strength training before. It is a 3-day per week resistance training plan, with a little bit of climbing sprinkled in. You can do more…

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In-Depth: Overhead Press Progressions

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Q+A: Loading and Progression in Weight Training?

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Q: Hello, I am just beginning your Base Strength 2 program. (I’ve been doing variations of Rippetoe’s programs on and off for years, so this seems like a reasonable place for me to start). I don’t see any detail about loading or progression. For example, in a session that indicates four sets of deadlifts, with…

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Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?

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Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings…

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In-Depth: Training “Starting Strength”

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In-Depth: Head and Neck Positioning When Lifting Weights

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In-Depth: Consider Adding Volume Instead of Load

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Kevin Wallingford Dead Lift b&w

Q+A: Should I use a belt or straps when weight training?

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Box Jump

Training Power in the Weight Room

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“Power,” said Hassan Saab, “If you’re talking about it, you ain’t got it.” In hard climbing, power is everything. When we reach our limits, whether they be 5.11 or 5.15, we start having to use speed and momentum to get between the holds. Most climbers recognize this and train for it specifically – buy using…

KB Swing vs. Deadlift

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When you say that kettlebell swings are a good hip hinge option, I assume you are talking about HEAVY swings, right? Like sets of only 5-10 reps? If so, how do you manage progression here? It’s not like I can just add a plate to the bell every session. Is there any strength benefit to…

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