Weight Training
Weight Training: What it is and is not.
Tags: Strength Training, Weight Training
As humans, we all tend to use categories and observations about groups of things to understand the world.Puppies are cute. Fruits are sweet. Scarpa shoes are awesome. Categories. It gets dangerous. Women are crazy. People with dark skin are dangerous. Liberals are weak. We learn through our culture, our parents, our schools that individual observation…
Base Strength 1
Tags: Finger Strength, Off Season, Simplest Hangboard Plan, Weight Training
When I say base, I mean base. This plan is a 4-week repeatable plan that is aimed at climbers who are coming off a layoff or who have not done any strength training before. It is a 3-day per week resistance training plan, with a little bit of climbing sprinkled in. You can do more…
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Q+A: Loading and Progression in Weight Training?
Tags: Progression, Q+A, Weight Training
Q: Hello, I am just beginning your Base Strength 2 program. (I’ve been doing variations of Rippetoe’s programs on and off for years, so this seems like a reasonable place for me to start). I don’t see any detail about loading or progression. For example, in a session that indicates four sets of deadlifts, with…
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Q+A: Triphasic Training in Climbing?
Tags: Planning, Programming, Q+A, triphasic training, Weight Training
Q: Do you think there is value to incorporating triphasic training principles in climbing? Forearm curls seem to be a place where they could be applied. If yes, when would you add it. I am on a non-linear program with s strength day, power day and power endurance day. I also have bar campus rings…
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Training Power in the Weight Room
Tags: Power, Power Training, Strength, Weight Training
“Power,” said Hassan Saab, “If you’re talking about it, you ain’t got it.” In hard climbing, power is everything. When we reach our limits, whether they be 5.11 or 5.15, we start having to use speed and momentum to get between the holds. Most climbers recognize this and train for it specifically – buy using…
KB Swing vs. Deadlift
Tags: deadlift, Kettlebells, Q+A, Weight Training
When you say that kettlebell swings are a good hip hinge option, I assume you are talking about HEAVY swings, right? Like sets of only 5-10 reps? If so, how do you manage progression here? It’s not like I can just add a plate to the bell every session. Is there any strength benefit to…
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So You Started Lifting…Now What?
Tags: Progress, Strength Standards, Training, Weight Training
by Steve Bechtel Over the years, many climbers have started weight training at my urging, but it doesn’t take long before the questions start rolling in. So you started lifting, now what? How much? How heavy? How many exercises? It always depends on the athlete, but we keep coming back to a few guidelines. The…