Variations on Integrated Strength

We’ve been training strength for a long time. For years, I struggled with just how to fit all the hangboard training, general strength training, and supporting exercises in a normal climber’s week. Many of us try to get by without the extra work, opting to just go climbing instead. A look at the big picture, at the idea of climbing effectively and injury-free over the course of a 30+ year period, forces us to understand that just climbing is not enough.

This article is not an attempt to convince readers to start strength training. What I am going to outline here are variations on a climbing strength program known as Integrated Strength. For those unfamiliar with the program, it’s a simple combination of:

1 General Strength Exercise + 1 Finger Strength Exercise + 1 Mobility or Stability Drill

We do these as a small circuit, each of which takes less than 5 minutes. The standard Integrated Strength Program looks like this:

3 sets each of:

General Strength Exercise 1

Finger Strength Exercise 1

Mobility Drill 1

3 sets each of:

General Strength Exercise 2

Finger Strength Exercise 2

Mobility Drill 2

3 sets each of:

General Strength Exercise 3

Finger Strength Exercise 3

Mobility Drill 3

This session takes most athletes about 45 minutes. If you can complete a session in a lot faster than this time, you’re not lifting heavy enough and not trying hard enough on the hangboard.

The standard implementation of these sessions is to do them 3x per week for 4-6 weeks in an off-season phase. The sessions can be used in-season once a week to maintain strength.

Variations

There are times of the year or training goals that ask that we diverge from the basic format. With the growing understanding that strength is fundamental not only to injury prevention but to climbing performance, we are constantly testing and finding ways of keeping strength year-round. The critical component, of course, is continuity. Training strength for short periods separated by months of performance is not only risky, but frustrating. How would you like to always be stuck at the same level in each and every facet of your training? If the standard 3×3 format above isn’t right for you, try one of the following variants:

Varied Arm Positioning

This template is based on focusing the hangboard efforts on upper body strength rather than exclusively finger strength. The three hangboard exercises all feature the half-crimp position, but we vary the angle at the elbow. The series then looks like this:

3 sets each of:

Hip Hinge Pattern

2 Arm Hang, Straight Arm, Half Crimp

Hip Mobility

3 sets each of:

Squat Pattern

2 Arm Hang, Elbow 90 Degrees, Half Crimp

Shoulder Mobility

3 sets each of:

Overhead Press Pattern

2 Arm Hang, Full Lock Off, Half Crimp

Core Stability Exercise

Long Circuits

In the Long Circuits variation, the athlete aims to complete two big circuits per session rather than three circuits of three exercises. Each of these big circuits is done 3 or 4 times, depending on the time available and the desired volume of training.

The standard Long Circuit session is as follows:

Circuit 1

Hang position 1

Horizontal Pull

Hang position 2

Core

Hang position 3

Squat

Mobility

Circuit 2

Hang position 1

Vertical Press

Hang position 2

Core

Hang position 3

Hip Hinge

Mobility

This protocol is excellent for those looking to add a bit of volume to their finger strength, as it allows 6-8 sets each for all three positions on the hangboard. We try to keep the hang times in the 5-10 second range, and aim for bodyweight or simple (i.e. a single weight for all three hangs) loading.

Separated Circuits

In the Separated Circuits sessions, the athlete completes the weightroom and hangboard portions of the training separately. This is ideal for climbers whose facilities are in different locations or whose gyms are really busy. The standard series looks like this:

3-5 rounds:

Hip Hinge

Hip Mobility

Press

Shoulder Mobility

3-5 rounds:

Squat

Hip Mobility

Pull

Shoulder Mobility

3-5 rounds:

Hang position 1

Core 1

Hang position 2

Core 2

Hang position 3

Core 3

Ideally, you’d complete all three portions of the session with just a few minutes’ rest between. If you are dealing with two different facilities, a break of up to about 90 minutes is OK before a full re-warm is necessary.

High Volume Circuits

This variation features more exercises and hangboard positions, but generally you’ll train fewer cycles of each. The standard set-up is as follows:

Circuit 1, 2 rounds:

Hang position 1

Squat

Hip Mobility

Hang position 2

Circuit 2, 2 rounds:

Hang position 3

Press

Shoulder Mobility

Hang position 4

Circuit 3, 2 rounds:

Hang position 1

Hinge

Hip Mobility

Hang position 2

Circuit 2, 2 rounds:

Hang position 3

Core

Shoulder Mobility

Hang position 4

Each of these circuits takes about 10 minutes to complete for 2 rounds. If you have the time and have a need for higher volume, three rounds of each can be completed. If you find that you can complete the circuits significantly faster than this, it’s time to consider whether you are lifting enough weight and using challenging enough hang positions.

All of the above variants still address the main goals of Integrated Strength: big muscle work with finger strength training, a focus on mobility, and an efficient way to bring in all the critical components of strength for climbing.