In-Season Fitness – Logical Progression 1

The Logical Progression plans are built to function either as stand-alone training with no additional climbing days, or as in-season programs done between days at the crag. This program features lower-volume sessions and is specifically aimed at keeping power and strength topped out for bouldering or crux-based route climbing. This is not an endurance-heavy program, so unless your project is providing all the endurance training you need, you need to look elsewhere.

This plan features three sessions, which are performed in sequence, irrespective of the day of the week or whether you did two sessions or four this week. You simply alternated between Sessions 1, 2, and 3 until you have worked through the sequence 6 times. Thus this program can run anywhere from 4 to 8 weeks depending on your capacity and intensity of efforts. As always, I’ll remind you that our in-season performance phases should be enhanced by or training, not diminished by it. This means training takes a backseat to performance.

 

Session 1: Finger Strength and Technical Bouldering

Warm-Up with a standard bouldering warm-up 10-15 minutes

Finger Strength: Go 100 / Core

Two positions, trained in supersets with core. Aim for 10-15 sec hangs, and adjust load accordingly.

 

A1: Large Edge 100sec total (at approx 10sec per set)

A2: Hanging Straight Leg Raise 5x after each hang

 

B1: Pocket Hang 100sec total

B2: Ab Wheel Roll-Out 5x after each hang

 

Tech Bouldering: Perfect Repeats

Pick 3 problems at approximately onsight level. Do each 5-7 times, working to get closer and closer to perfect on each go. If your form starts to degrade, stop the set.

 

Session 2: Limit Boulder and Power Resistance Training

 

Warm-Up with a standard bouldering warm-up 10-15 minutes

Limit Bouldering: 45-60 minutes after warm-up.

Pick 3-5 very hard problems or sections of problems. Work these with an eye toward improvement and linkage, not necessarily sending.

 

Power RT:

5 rounds of:

8x Box Jump (go to single leg if you can jump more than 30”)

8x Ball Slam

4+4x Campus Ladder moves or 4x Power Pull-Up

Frog Stretch, 60 sec

 

Session 3: 1-2-3 Capacity Bouldering

In this session, you’ll do a normal warm-up, followed by a sequence of 3 sets of boulders.

 

The first will be a single problem that is near your max, but you should be able to do it or come close – no super-limit climbing here.

 

Rest 2-3 minutes, then you are going to do two problems at about your onsight level, linked together by an easy downclimb. You can do the same problem twice if this is easier to set up.

 

Rest another 2-3 minutes, then you are going to do three slightly easier problems back-to-back, but without having to downclimb. Simply do problem one, jump down, do problem 2, jump down and do problem 3. After this third set, rest 5-8 minutes with some stretching before repeating the sequence two more times.

 

This makes for three sets with 6 problems per set – a total of 18 problems. Progress this not by adding more problems,but by increasing the difficulty of the climbing.

 

Training Notes:

  • Don’t get hung up in the details. If you need to sub something in for an exercise you don’t know or don’t have the tools for, do it.
  • Be willing to vary the loading on the hangboard. You are not a linear learning machine.
  • Be sure to eat a bigger meal after the capacity bouldering session – this one can be hard to recover from.
  • This is an in-season plan, so make sure to place a full rest day before evey outside climbing day. Go easy on adding load or intensity to the training, as you are already doing that outside.
  • If your performance is declining while training, you’re probably not resting enough. Add another full day of rest to your cycle and see what happens.
  • Write this all down as you do the training. If it works well, you should try to follow the program again to get similar results.