This is where you should start If you haven’t been training. This is a general strength progression to help you get ready for harder and more targeted training later on. We suggest this for novice trainees, for climbers who have had more than 6 months off, and for climbers coming off a major injury. The focus of this program is building full-body strength with a base level of hangboard training and bouldering.

 

This plan can be carried out in any standard commercial weight room, and can easily be modified to do at home with only a few implements. You will need:

 

A pull-up bar

2-3 pair of dumbbells

A hangboard

 

MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN
Week 1 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 1 Press, Hinge, Core 1 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 2 Press, Hinge, Core 2 Bouldering for Volume
Week 2 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 3 Press, Hinge, Core 3 Bouldering for Volume
Week 3 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 4 Press, Hinge, Core 4 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 5 Press, Hinge, Core 5 Bouldering for Volume
Week 4 Pull, Squat, Hangboard 6 Press, Hinge, Core 6 Bouldering for Volume

 

Training Detail:

Week 1, Monday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 1

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 5 sets alternating between 5 push-ups and 5 squats.

 

1) 3 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 5 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 10 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 10 reps

 

2) 4 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 10 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Hangboard, medium edge 5 second hang (same edge and load as 10s hang)

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Week 1, Tuesday

Press, Hinge, Core 1

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 5 sets alternating between 5 push-ups and 5 squats.

 

1) 3 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 5 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 10 reps

 

2) 3 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 5

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 5

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 5

 

Week 1, Thursday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 2

This workout is the same as Monday, but we progress your training volume. Add load (weight) to exercises that felt too easy Monday. Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 5 sets alternating between 5 push-ups and 5 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 5 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 10 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 10 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 10 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Hangboard, medium edge 5 second hang (same edge and load as 10s hang)

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Week 1, Friday

Press, Hinge, Core 2

This session is the same as Tuesday’s, but the volume of sets goes up. Add load to exercises as you see fit. Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 5 sets alternating between 5 push-ups and 5 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 5 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 10 reps

 

2) 4 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 5

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 5

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 5

 

Week 1, Sunday

Bouldering for Volume. This is a 90 minute bouldering session. Move at a pace that allows you to feel fresh for each problem…this is not a session intended to pump you out. Record each problem and its grade. At the end of 90 minutes, record your VSum – the total of all the V grades of the problems you completed. Count V0s as V1s. Keep this total to compare to future sessions.

 

Week 2, Tuesday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 3

This workout is the same as last Thursday, but you’ll note that it feels much easier this week. Keep increasing the load on each exercise you can this session, as long as you can maintain perfect movement.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 5 sets alternating between 5 push-ups and 5 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 5 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 10 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 10 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 10 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Hangboard, medium edge 5 second hang (same edge and load as 10s hang)

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Week 2, Thursday

Press, Hinge, Core 3

This session is the same as last Friday, but you’ll already be feeling stronger on these movements. Add load to exercises as you see fit. Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 6 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 5 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 10 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 5

 

Tug of War Squat 60 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 5

 

Frog Stretch 60 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 5

 

Week 2, Saturday

Bouldering for Volume. This is a 90 minute bouldering session. Move at a pace that allows you to feel fresh for each problem…this is not a session intended to pump you out. Record each problem and its grade. At the end of 90 minutes, record your VSum – the total of all the V grades of the problems you completed. Count V0s as V1s. Compare VSum to last Sunday.

 

Week 3, Monday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 4

The session format changes slightly this week. Keep the same loads as you had in the last session for all sets.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 6 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 7 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 12 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 12 reps

 

2) 7 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 8 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Hangboard, large edge 8 second hang

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Week 3, Tuesday

Press, Hinge, Core 4

Just like Monday’s session, we change reps and sets on this one, but try to keep the loads at the same high level.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 6 sets alternating between 7 push-ups and 7 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 7 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 12 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 7

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 7

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 7

 

Week 3, Thursday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 5

Reps/sets go up again. Keep the same loads as you had in the last session for all sets.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 6 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 8 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 15 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 15 reps

 

2) 6 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 10 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Hangboard, large edge 10 second hang

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Week 3, Friday

Press, Hinge, Core 5

Again, we change reps and sets on this one, but try to keep the loads at the same level as Tuesday.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 7 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 8 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 15 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 8

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 8

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 8

 

Week 3, Sunday

Bouldering for Volume. This is a 90 minute bouldering session. Move at a pace that allows you to feel fresh for each problem…this is not a session intended to pump you out. Record each problem and its grade. At the end of 90 minutes, record your VSum – the total of all the V grades of the problems you completed. Count V0s as V1s. Compare VSum to last Saturday.

 

Week 4, Tuesday

Pull, Squat, and Hangboard 6

This is the final pulling session of the build. This session should see your sets and reps stay fixed, but allow for some increases in the loads on many of the exercises.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 7 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Pull-Up (or regression) x 8 reps

 

Goblet Squat x 15 reps

 

Hanging Knee Raise x 15 reps

 

2) 6 rounds:

Hangboard, medium edge 10 second hang

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Hangboard, large edge 10 second hang

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Week 4, Thursday

Press, Hinge, Core 6

This is the final pressing session of the build. This session should see your sets and reps stay fixed, but allow for some increases in the loads on many of the exercises.

 

Warm-Up well, with 5-10 minutes of easy activity such as a jog or time on a stationary bike. Finish the warm-up with 7 sets alternating between 6 push-ups and 6 squats.

 

1) 4 sets each:

Push-Up (or progression) x 8 reps

 

Kettlebell Deadlift x 15 reps

 

2) 5 rounds:

Hanging Straight Leg Raise x 8

 

Tug of War Squat 45 sec

 

Weighted Sit-Up x 8

 

Frog Stretch 45 sec

 

Ab Wheel x 8

 

Week 4, Saturday

Bouldering for Volume. This is a 90 minute bouldering session. Move at a pace that allows you to feel fresh for each problem…this is not a session intended to pump you out. Record each problem and its grade. At the end of 90 minutes, record your VSum – the total of all the V grades of the problems you completed. Count V0s as V1s. Compare VSum to last Sunday.

 

After completion of this 4-week plan, you’re probably ready to move on to one of our bouldering-focused plans, or continue the strength build with another of our General Training Plans.

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