Power Bouldering Training Plan 1

The Power Bouldering plans are built to help you maximize power production in boulderers and route climbers. This training plan incorporates bouldering (indoors or out), campusing, and resistance training. This is a simple Level I plan, appropriate for climbers who have been training very little in the past 12 months, want a very simple program, or are new to organized training altogether. The time commitment of this plan is 9-10 hours per week on average.

 

DAY 1 DAY 2 DAY 3 DAY 4 DAY 5 DAY 6 DAY 7
WEEK 1 Volume Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Volume Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering (90 minutes) Rest
Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes)
9h
WEEK 2 Volume Bouldering Session (120 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Volume Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes)
Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Campus Training (20 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Campus Training (20 minutes)
9.5h
WEEK 3 Volume Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Volume Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering (90 minutes) Rest
Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes)
9h
WEEK 4 Volume Bouldering Session (120 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes) Rest Volume Bouldering Session (120 minutes) Rest Limit Bouldering Session (90 minutes)
Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Campus Training (20 minutes) Strength Resistance Training (60 minutes) Campus Training (20 minutes)
10h

 

Day 1:

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (75 min): Volume bouldering is about building work capacity for longer climbing days and more high quality tries. You’ll limit the difficulty of your climbing day to problems at your onsight level (climbs you can normally do first try) and the next two grades below. For example, if your onsight level is V5, the session would consist of getting as many problems in the V3, V4, and V5 grade range as possible. In this session you have 75 minutes to climb these problems. Don’t hurry, but don’t spend too much time chatting either. During this session you’ll want to track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 75 minutes).

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible. This reduces the needed warm-up time as you should be very warm after bouldering!

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 2:

Rest

 

Day 3:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering is a critical component to upping your power on steeps. In this session, you will focus on doing hard boulder problems that take several tries (usually 3-5) to complete. The limit bouldering sessions should last no more than 75 minutes after warm-up, with “more rest than needed” between problems. Quality of effort is our big goal – not how many problems you can do.

 

Keep track of your “Average V” in this session, adding up your VSum and dividing by the number of problems you do. Over the course of this training plan, you’ll want to increase this number each Limit session.

 

Day 4:

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles (2 each of every grade up to OS).

 

Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Each of these numbers should go up slightly compared to the last session (Day 1).

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

8x Inverted Row

4+4x Walking Lunge

30-60 sec Fire Log

 

5 rounds:

8x Overhead Press

15x Kettlebell Swing

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

 

Day 5:

Rest, or easy cardiovascular training. Opt for conversational intensity hiking or running, no more than 75 minutes.

 

Day 6:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 3.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 7:

Rest

 

Day 8:

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (105 min): Volume bouldering. Track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 60 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 1 and Day 4.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 9:

Rest

 

Day 10:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 6.

 

Campus Training – 20 minutes

Campusing is high-intensity, but is good practice for timing and for developing your contact strength. If you are very fatigued from the bouldering, skip this part of the day’s session. Otherwise, do the following sets.

 

3 sets: Single-Rung Ladders 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 (3 hits each hand), rest as needed between

3 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

1 set: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

 

Day 11:

Rest

 

Day 12:

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles (2 each of every grade up to OS).

 

Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Even though your session duration goes up (and the VSum with it), your Density should remain steady or increase.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

8x Inverted Row

4+4x Walking Lunge

30-60 sec Fire Log

 

5 rounds:

8x Overhead Press

15x Kettlebell Swing

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

 

Day 13:

Rest

 

Day 14:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 10.

 

Campus Training – 20 minutes

 

3 sets: Single-Rung Ladders 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 (3 hits each hand), rest as needed between

3 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

3 sets: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

 

Day 15:

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade (a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (105 min): Volume bouldering. Track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 105 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 8 (VSum) and Day 12 (Density).

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 16:

Rest

 

Day 17:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 14.

 

Day 18:

Volume Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles (2 each of every grade up to OS).

 

Session (75 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Compare to Day 15.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

8x Inverted Row

4+4x Walking Lunge

30-60 sec Fire Log

 

5 rounds:

8x Overhead Press

15x Kettlebell Swing

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

 

Day 19:

Rest

 

Day 20:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 17.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 21:

Rest

 

Day 22:

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (105 min): Volume bouldering. Track your VSum (add up the total V points for all the problems you do), and the “density” of the session (divide the VSum by the session time, in this case 105 minutes). Compare these to the numbers from Day 15 (VSum) and Day 18 (Density).

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

5x Pull-Ups

5x Front Squat

30-60 sec Frog Stretch

 

5 rounds:

5x Bench Press

5x Deadlift

30-60sec PVC Shoulder Stretch

 

Day 23:

Rest

 

Day 24:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 20.

 

Campus Training – 20 minutes

 

4 sets: Single-Rung Ladders 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 (3 hits each hand), rest as needed between

4 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

3 sets: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

 

Day 25:

Rest

 

Day 26:

Volume Bouldering – 120 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles (2 each of every grade up to OS).

 

Session (105 min): Steady paced, medium-intensity bouldering. Track VSum and Density of problems. Compare to Day 22.

 

Strength Resistance Training – 60 minutes

Do this session right after the bouldering, if possible.

 

5 rounds:

8x Inverted Row

4+4x Walking Lunge

30-60 sec Fire Log

 

5 rounds:

8x Overhead Press

15x Kettlebell Swing

30-60sec Doorway Shoulder Opener

 

Day 27: Rest

 

Day 28:

Limit Bouldering – 90 minutes

 

Warm-Up (15-20 min): Boulder Problem Ladder, doubles. Do two each V0, V1, V2 up to your onsight grade(a maximum of 10 problems). If your onsight grade is at the V1 or V2 level, simply do six problems below your level to warm-up.

 

Session (70-75 min): Limit bouldering. Look for an increase in Average V over Day 24.

 

Campus Training – 20 minutes

 

4 sets: Single-Rung Ladders 1-2-3-4-5-6-7 (3 hits each hand), rest as needed between

4 sets: 1-3-4 or 1-4-6, 2 times per side, rest as needed.

4 sets: 1-5 or 1-6, one per side.

 

At the end of this program, you’ll see significant gains in the resistance training numbers, and you’ll also note much progress in all three aspects of the bouldering you tracked. If this program feels like it is still interesting and will produce results, feel free to run another 28 day cycle of it. Otherwise, consider switching to a plan that focuses on a different aspect of your fitness, such as an endurance plan.

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