This training plan has been our most-downloaded plan for over five years. It’s pretty basic, but it delivers results. The version here is updated from the original 2007 program to reflect changes in our programming. This training cycle is set up to allow a little more leeway in an athlete’s training. It is a repeating cycle of strength, hangboard, and boulder training for intermediate or advanced boulderers. This plan involves 4 workouts that are done in sequence until each has been completed 4 times. We usually see this cycle taking 4-5 weeks, but hitting slightly outside that range is OK. More rest equals better results, so don’t get in a hurry.

Workout 1. Strength RT (resistance training).

Exercises are done in pairs for 3 sets. 60 seconds between exercises, 2 minutes between groups.

A1: 5+5 1-arm inverted rows

A2: 5+5 1-leg squat

 

B1: 5 dumbbell bench press

B2: 2 deadlift

 

Include 5 x 8 reps heavy finger rolls at end of workout.

 

Workout 2. Hangboard + Core + Mobility

HB:

4 positions – Open Hand, Half-Crimp, Full Crimp, “weak” position

4 sets each, 5 seconds per hang.  Do 20-40 seconds of flexibility and mobility between hangs.

CORE:

4 rounds, 30 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.

Plank-Pull combo

Knees-To-Elbows

Ball (or TRX) Pike

Core Press

Rest

 

Workout 3. Power-Focused Bouldering

Warm-Up 10-15 minutes. Include a movement preparation warm-up before starting to climb.

Do 45-60 minutes of hard POWER problems. These are short (3-6 moves) and feature hard moves rather than tiny holds. Your body should be working hard, not your fingers.

 

Workout 4.  Hangboard + Core

HB:

3 positions – Open Hand, Half-Crimp, Full Crimp

3 sets each, 10 seconds per hang.  Do 20-40 seconds of flexibility and mobility between hangs.

CORE:

5 rounds, 45 seconds per exercise, no rest between sets.

Side T-Plank L

Side T-Plank R

Body Saw or Ball Roll-Out

Rest

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