This plan is built to be done in any rock gym, and you should feel free to modify the specifics as necessary as long as the general build keeps its form. This 4-week plan (which can be extended to 6 or even 8 weeks if progress keeps coming) is ideally suited for a run-up to a big trip or performance phase. As opposed to our off-season programs, we really turn up the energy system work in this plan, and look at trying to maintain strength built previously rather than trying to increase it.
This is, like all nonlinear programs, a sequenced series of sessions that aren’t necessarily tied to the week. In this plan, we’ll have three training sessions, and will allow for one to two days per week of climbing at the crag.
The sessions are:
- Integrated Strength Training (3 groups of exercises, 3 sets each)
- Medium/Hard Level Bouldering
- 2-4-2 Capacity Circuits
Session 1: Integrated Strength / 7:3 Repeaters
This is a bit of a divergence from our normal IS programs, in that the finger strength is done at the end of the session. This is approximately an hour to 75 minute session for most athletes. Warm-up well for this session. Remember, your goal is to hold strength steady this phase, so don’t try to push loads the way you would off season, otherwise we tap into resources we’d rather use elsewhere…
Group A (3 rounds):
Deadlift (from blocks) x3
Frog Stretch x40 seconds
1-Arm Overhead Press x3+3
Group B (3 rounds):
Superband Overhead Stretch x40 sec each side
DB Row x6+6
Group C (3 rounds):
Prying Cobra x40 seconds
2 rounds of 7 x 7:3 in the following positions (Beastmaker 6Cish session) [this is available on Beastmaker’s excellent mobile app.]
4-Finger ½ Crimp
4-Finger Open Hand
2-Finger Middle Pair
2-Finger First Pair
Session 2: Medium/Hard Bouldering
This is not a limit session. This session should be done on a variety of problems from a little below your onsight level to a little above. Track Average V for the session, and work toward improving this number slightly through the cycle. Aim for 75-90 minutes of climbing, but be willing to stop the session if you feel power declining. Remember that this session is about explosiveness and hard movement, not about fatigue. Fatigue gets trained next session…
Session 3: 2-4-2 Capacity Bouldering
In this session, you’ll do a normal warm-up, followed by a sequence of 3 sets of boulders.
The first will be two problems at about your onsight level, linked together by an easy downclimb. You can do the same problem twice if this is easier to set up. If your onsight is V7, then you might do V7+V7, V6+V7, or the like.
Rest 3 minutes, then you are going to do four slightly easier problems back-to-back, but without having to downclimb. Simply do problem one, jump down, do problem 2, jump down and do problem 3, jump down and do problem 4. In our V7 onsighter example above, these might be V4-V5-V5-V6 or a similar sequence. You should be able to complete all of the problems with good form. If not, back off slightly on the difficulty.
Rest 3 minutes, then go back to a back-to-back pair of onsight level problems linked, just like in the first group, above. After completing this pair rest 8-10 minutes. Repeat the full sequence 2 more times.
This makes for three sets with 8 problems per set – a total of 24 problems. Progress this not by adding more problems, or by reducing rest, but by increasing the difficulty of the climbing.