There are a lot of good climbing exercises out there, and there are a ton of fun climbing gyms, so why don’t we see better progress from most climbers? I don’t think it’s a lack of a good facility, nor a lack of knowledge of exercises. I think it’s a lack of practical application of training. Our athletes have proven time and again that good planning can mean all the difference between getting the next grade and staying stuck. How do you jump start a five-year plateau? Get organized.
I’ve heard from some of our site members that the training plans with percentages and cycles were a bit hard to understand, so I am taking a different tactic with this one. This is a four-week strength plan that I’ve set out in a detailed day-by-day format. It features a 3-day per week resistance plan, as well as 3-4 days per week of specific climbing training. Your time commitment is about 2-2.5 hours, 3 days per week.

A few details of the sessions:

HB Repeaters

This session starts with a general warm-up, followed by half of the prescribed ARC climbing (10 minutes in the first session). You should be very warm by the time you start. Hangboard training is a great way to prevent finger injuries, unless you don’t warm-up…then guess what? You’ll do seven positions in the first few workouts, each for two sets of a minute each (6 seconds on, 4 seconds off) with 2-3 min rest between. If you haven’t trained on a hangboard, be smart about progressing into such a high-volume session. The positions are up to you. Finish with another 10 minutes of ARC. This whole session should take about an hour or an hour and a half.

 

Strength Resistance Training

I like to put these right after the HB workout, which acts as a great warm-up. We do 3 sets each of the following pairs of exercises, resting as needed:

Deadlift + Suspended Push-Up

Rack Step-Up + Inverted Row

Knees to Elbows + Hardstyle Plank

For the first two pairs, we are looking for heavy resistance and progression of load over the cycle. If you don’t feel like you need to rest between sets, you’re clearly going too light. The final pair are done for time…most athletes start with 30 seconds each resting 30 seconds between. Remember, core training is about control, not reps.

The second strength session presented is short and is more designed to develop shoulder strength, stability, and back strength. We’ll do three rounds of one Turkish Get Up on each side, 8 KB shoulder presses on each side, 25 swings, and and Hardstyle plank for 20 seconds.

 

Volume Climbing

Keep it easy. You don’t always have to be seshing your proj. Aim for lots of pitches climbed with precision and technical correctness. I like my athletes to try and “bring themselves forward” into being conscious about their movement with every clip, or by setting a timer to go off every 2-3 minutes.  Also, no toproping. If you’re apt to TR routes, chances are your fitness isn’t the issue and you should be at a Warrior’s Way clinic instead.

Of all the sessions in the block, this is optional. Our first goal is strength, our second is maintaining endurance.

 

Contrast Bouldering

Start with a long warm-up, plus some ARC (half of the prescription). You then pick an OS level problem, do it statically as possible, then dynamically as possible, then climb it normally. Repeat the same process on seven more problems. Finish the session with 30-40 minutes of hard bouldering, and the last half of your ARC.

 

Day 1:

HB REPEATERS. 7 POS (lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono) , 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 2 X 10
STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS

 

Day 2:

Rest

 

Day 3:

STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS
HB REPEATERS. 7 POS(lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 2 X 12 / OPTIONAL VOLUME CLIMB, REPLACES ARC.

 

Day 4:

Rest

 

Day 5:

HB REPEATERS. 7 POS (lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 2 X 15
STR RT. 3 SETS EACH TGU 1+1, PRESS 8+8, SWING 25, HS PLANK.

 

Day 6:

VOLUME CLIMB 7+ pitches, up to OS-1

 

Day 7:

Rest

 

Day 8:

HB REPEATERS. 7 POS (lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 3 X 12
STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS

 

Day 9:

Rest

 

Day 10:

STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS
HB REPEATERS. 7 POS (lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 2 X 18 / OPTIONAL VOLUME CLIMB, REPLACES ARC

 

Day 11:

Rest

 

Day 12:

HB REPEATERS. 7 POS (lg edge, lg edge, 2/3 med, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono) , 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 3 X 15
STR RT. 3 SETS EACH TGU 1+1, PRESS 8+8, SWING 25, HS PLANK.

 

Day 13:

VOLUME CLIMB 7+ pitches, up to OS-1

 

Day 14:

Rest

 

Day 15:

HB REPEATERS. 5 POS (lg edge, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 2 X 22
STR RT. 2 SETS EACH TGU 1+1, PRESS 8+8, SWING 25, HS PLANK.

 

Day 16:

Rest

 

Day 17:

STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS
HB REPEATERS. 5 POS (lg edge, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 3X18 / OPTIONAL VOLUME CLIMB, REPLACES ARC.

 

Day 18:

Rest

 

Day 19:

CONTRAST BOULDERING 8 PROB (1 STATIC ATT, 1 DYN. ATT, 1 BEST ATT.) / BOULDER FOR DIFFICULTY, 40 MIN. / ARC 2X25
STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS

 

Day 20:

VOLUME CLIMB 7+ pitches, up to OS-1

 

Day 21:

Rest

 

Day 22:

HB REPEATERS. 5 POS (lg edge, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4. / ARC 1 X 30
STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS

 

Day 23:

Rest

 

Day 24:

STR RESISTANCE TRAINING. DL + SUSP. PU / RACK STEP-UP + INV. ROW / KTE + HS (FOR TIME) PLANK 3 SETS EACH, 4-6 REPS
BOULDERING FOR DIFFICULTY 60 MIN. / HB REPEATERS. 5 POS (lg edge, med edge, 1/2 sm, crimp, mono), 2 SETS EA, 6:4.

 

Day 25:

Rest

 

Day 26:

CONTRAST BOULDERING 8 PROB (1 STATIC ATT, 1 DYN. ATT, 1 BEST ATT.) / BOULDER FOR DIFFICULTY, 60 MIN. / arc 1 x 35
STR RT. 2 SETS EACH TGU 1+1, PRESS 8+8, SWING 25, RKC PLANK.

 

Day 27:

VOLUME CLIMB 7+ pitches, up to OS-1

 

Day 28:

Rest

Leave a Comment