This is a 6-week plan for climbers looking to maximize Strength-Endurance for short crux sequences and long boulder problems. There are no specific days assigned to these workouts, nor rest days specified. Just plan on doing the workouts in the order written, and rest as necessary.

 

Week 1-

For week 1, you want to build up your training volume and figure out where you are fitness-wise. This is the week to go easy. There is a lot of hard to come. If you’re doing this plan, the assumption is that you’ve got a good base of strength and power from the previous phase.

Workout 1.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

 

Workout 2.

  • Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems / 6x 20 move traverse into OS level problem (rest until fully recovered between hard efforts, at least 3x as long as your work effort)

 

Workout 3.

  • 10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 10 minutes rest
  • 8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 8 minutes rest
  • 6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 6 minutes rest
  • 4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 4 minutes rest
  • 2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

 

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

Workouts 5, 6, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your focus workouts.

 

Week 2-

Week 2 is similar to week 1, although loads should be increasing. We add one more bouldering day, but not at hard intensity.

Workout 1.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 8 laps on jug problems
  • 5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

 

Workout 2.

  • Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems / 6x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

 

Workout 3.

  • 10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 10 minutes rest
  • 8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 8 minutes rest
  • 6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 6 minutes rest
  • 4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 4 minutes rest
  • 2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

 

Workout 4.

10-12 boulder problems at OS+1/2. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an hour. No extra volume afterward, please.

 

Workout 5. (repeat of workout 1)

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 8 laps on jug problems
  • 5 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

 

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your focus workouts.

Week 3.

The third and sixth weeks of this program should be the hardest both in terms of volume and intensity. Week 4 will bring a welcome AND REQUIRED rest.

Workout 1.

  • Short Intervals: 8x up-down-up problems
  • rest 10-12 minutes
  • 4x4s changing angle of problems and predominant hold types
  • rest 10-12 minutes
  • 3x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

 

Workout 2.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 4 laps on jug problems
  • 6 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

 

Workout 3.

Long Interval workout, continuous push.

4 repeats of a 25-30 move problem (traverse or linked problems). Rest 2 x as long as it took you to climb. This should be an awkward and rest-free problem…and it should be a specific one rather than “just traversing” down the wall. This is a great opportunity to work on weaknesses, so if you can set the problem yourself, keep this in mind.

 

Workout 4.

10-12 boulder problems at OS+2/3. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an hour. No extra volume afterward, please.

 

Workout 5.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 6 pull-ups on-the-minute for 10 minutes

 

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your focus workouts.

 

Week 4.

Week 4 is the recovery week. Volume and intensity both back off about 20-30%.

 

Workout 1.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • 3 x max pull-up on large jugs or pull-up bar
  • 25 reps knees-to-elbows split into as many sets as possible

 

Workout 2.

  • Short Intervals: 6x up-down-up problems
  • 5 max-effort boulder problems with lots of rest between

 

Workout 3.

  • Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 4 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

 

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • 3 x max pull-up on large jugs or pull-up bar
  • 25 reps knees-to-elbows fewer total sets than last time if possible

 

Week 5.

Workout 1.

  • Short Intervals: 8x up-down-up problems
  • rest 10-12 minutes
  • 4x4s changing angle of problems and predominant hold types
  • rest 10-12 minutes
  • 4x 20 move traverse (pre-fatigue) into OS level problem

 

Workout 2.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 4 laps on jug problems
  • 7 pull-ups on-the-minute for 7 minutes

 

Workout 3.

Long Interval workout, continuous push.

5 repeats of a 25-30 move problem (traverse or linked problems). Rest 2 x as long as it took you to climb. This should be an awkward and rest-free problem…and it should be a specific one rather than “just traversing” down the wall. This is a great opportunity to work on weaknesses, so if you can set the problem yourself, keep this in mind.

 

Workout 4.

  • 10-12 boulder problems at OS+2/3. Make sure to get a good warm-up, and rest plenty between problems. Shouldn’t take more than an hour.
  • Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 3 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

 

Workout 5.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 5 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 7 pull-ups on-the-minute for 9 minutes

 

Workouts 6, 7, etc. should be either crag days or “other activity” such as running, cycling, weights, etc. These should not interfere with your focus workouts.

 

Week 6.

Workout 1.

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 8 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

 

Workout 2.

  • Short Intervals: 10x up-down-up problems

 

Workout 3.

  • 10 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 10 minutes rest
  • 8 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 8 minutes rest
  • 6 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 6 minutes rest
  • 4 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”
  • 4 minutes rest
  • 2 OS level boulder problems “on the minute”

 

Workout 4. (repeat of workout 1)

  • 20 min hangboard: 3 ex / 4 sets ea / 5-8 sec per
  • Lock and hover ladders: 6 laps on jug problems
  • 8 pull-ups on-the-minute for 8 minutes

 

Workout 5.

  • Long easy traverses or up -down-ups on easy stuff. 5 repeats of 5 minutes on / 5 minutes rest.

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