1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions


I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry Flash Boards and other mobile edge hang devices, and this made “mainTraining” finger strength possible almost anywhere.


We can’t always train at an ideal level in perfect conditions. Yet the yang side to hard training is not so much rest as it is avoiding the loss of strength. This plan can be used on vacation, at home when you can’t make the gym, or even at the end of Concourse A at the Denver airport, just right of the escalator that goes down to the furthest east gates.


If you are going to do a full cycle of this plan, I suggest 8 repeats of this hangboard protocol, with a maximum of 2-3 days per week. It’s so short and so simple, you will want to add more to it. I caution you that to do so might diminish the results. This is not high enough volume to build a strength plan around, but it is effective and quick when you are lacking for time or drive.


In this session, you’re going to pick an edge that you can hang on for ten to fifteen seconds without really fighting. If you’ve been away for a long time, consider starting this by using a pull-up bar instead of a hangboard.


Set 1:

Hang 5 sec, rest 25, hang 10, rest 20, hang 15, rest 15, hang to fail, rest 5 minutes. During these 5 minutes, do 2 sets of 45 second planks and some stretching.


Set 2:

Hang 5 sec, rest 35, hang 10, rest 30, hang 15, rest 25, hang to fail, rest 5 minutes. During these 5 minutes, do 2 sets of 10 seated straight leg raises and some stretching.


Set 3:

Hang 5 sec, rest 40, hang 10, rest 35, hang 15, rest 30, hang to fail, rest 5 minutes. During these 5 minutes, do 2 sets of 10 hollow rocks and some stretching.


If you complete the whole session without much issue, add 5 pounds to a vest or belt. Keep track of the weight you use and the time to fail on the last rep of each set. After 8 sessions, this plan will have played out and you should consider moving on.


This session can be done the same day as a weight training session, or the morning before a climbing day.