1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions


As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and loading and figuring out optimal hold sizes on the board, you might need to take a step back.


I suggest 8 repeats of this hangboard protocol, with a maximum of 2-3 days per week. It’s so short and so simple, you will want to add more to it. I caution you that to do so might diminish the results. Have the courage to focus and you’ll be pleased with what you find.


In this session, you’re going to pick an edge that you can hang on for ten to fifteen seconds without really fighting. If you’ve been away for a long time, consider starting this by using a pull-up bar instead of a hangboard. Then, you’ll do a simple time ladder:

Hang for 5 seconds, rest 25

Hang for 10 seconds, rest 20

Hang for 15 seconds, rest 15


This takes 90 seconds. Repeat it four times.


If you complete the whole session without much issue, add 5 pounds for the next session, but keep the sets and times fixed.


This session can be done the same day as a weight training session, or the morning before a climbing day.