We build all of our training plans to work for real people. Built on 4-week cycles, our plans can be assembled to address almost any training goal. Whether bouldering, big-wall climbing, redpointing, or just getting generally stronger, this is your starting point for getting better.

Rebuild I

Tags: , ,

By Steve Bechtel This is a training cycle of 4 weeks for climbers who have either never trained using weights and hangboards, or who have been away from climbing and training for an extended period of time. The volume and difficulty is progressed conservatively, and we are looking for the work capacity and strength to…

In-Season Training (Power-Endurance Redpointing) – Weekends Only Climbing

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel The vast majority of climbers hold two things in common: They like to send. They have to work.   Short of taking a month off work every time you’re in peak shape, you’ve got to use a training plan that is going to get you to the weekend topped up of fitness…

AIP Program – 2024 Update – PERFORMANCE CYCLE (and Recovery)

Tags:

To reiterate the intro from the previous phases: The hardest thing about writing the world’s best training program is that most of us are just different enough that not everything works for all people. Which is why we can’t have a world’s best.    There are infinite ways of organizing training, and the fundamental parts…

AIP Program – 2024 Update – INTENSIFICATION CYCLE

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel The hardest thing about writing the world’s best training program is that most of us are just different enough that not everything works for all people. Which is why we can’t have the world’s best.  There are infinite ways of organizing training, and the fundamental parts of it that almost all programs…

AIP Program – 2024 Update – ACCUMULATION CYCLE

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel The hardest thing about writing the world’s best training program is that most of us are just different enough that not everything works for all people. Which is why we can’t have a world’s best.  There are infinite ways of organizing training, and the fundamental parts of it that almost all programs…

Bouldering Training – 4 week Power Cycle with Aerobic Volume

Tags: , ,

One of the more effective plans we’ve run with boulderers over the years is an undulating power cycle. It’s been OK for route climbers to develop their power, too, but I started to find that regaining capacity for redpointing took too long as we transitioned into a performance phase. Thus, we started testing out added…

“Time Off” Training Plan

Tags: , ,

by Steve Bechtel OK, It might seem weird to write a training program for time away from climbing. It also might be weird to be seeking out a training plan to do that involves “time off.” Because isn’t “time off” just time away from doing a training plan? Sure, you could do that. You have…

Winter Base I

Tags: , , ,

WINTER BASE I by Steve Bechtel The Route Climbing BASE plans are built to increase finger strength, core strength, and overall body tension, with the longer efforts of full routes in mind. This plan is appropriate for boulderers looking for a bit more capacity as well as trad climbers, though the plan emphasizes finger strength…

Foundations of Power

Tags: , , ,

by Micah Elconin Introduction Admittedly, this was an experiment.  I’ve consistently strength trained for most of my multi decade climbing career and seem to be a relatively strong human given my age, history etc.  Sure, there’s always some weak links I’m looking to shore up, but as a general rule, I know that strength is…

Competition Bouldering – Capacity-Building Plan

Tags: , , ,

by Steve Bechtel We all have a pretty good idea on how to get better at bouldering—we go bouldering, rest a lot, and try some hard problems. We do some hanging, rest a bunch, and then do some more hanging. Or a few rips on the Moonboard. Or spend an afternoon at the Happys.  Competition…

3-TIER PLAN: 2023 REVISION

Tags: , , ,

The 3-Tier Plan is more a structure or philosophy than an actual training program, and could be better described as the “get out of your rut” plan. It underscores the idea that we truly do need to create a base of “persistent” training factors, then build fitness specific to our goal, and then go out…

Hang Fire

Tags: , , , , ,

by Jacob Carr Training programs, like a lot of things, are important to keep you on track to stay in line with your goals. They work a lot better than going to the gym and doing 20 minutes of abs, a few hangs, and then chatting with your friends in the bouldering gym. Not that…

Training Type