We build all of our training plans to work for real people. Built on 4-week cycles, our plans can be assembled to address almost any training goal. Whether bouldering, big-wall climbing, redpointing, or just getting generally stronger, this is your starting point for getting better.
Five New Hangboard Sessions – Fall 2022
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, programs, Strength, workouts
Five New Hangboard Workouts – Fall 2022 by Steve Bechtel Trying to decide between doing repeaters and max hangs is like living in Paris and trying to decide between eating at McDonalds or Subway. Not only are there other options out there, some of them might actually be better. Hell, I can’t blame the average…
2-3-1 Finger Strength A
Tags: Finger Strength, off-season strength, volume cycling
by Steve Bechtel If you’ve been training for any amount of time, you are probably familiar with “staleness” in training – when you go flat despite trying harder, putting more weight on the bar, or upping the grades in your limit sessions. Most athletes will show a pretty standard pattern of going flat after around…
Hangboard + Core 1
Tags: Core Strength, Finger Strength, Off Season
Getting stronger fingers requires heavy loading of the fingers. Heavy loading requires rest between sets. Resting between sets makes most of us feel like we are not working hard enough. Although the ideal rest times between hangs can be debated, the fact is that with maximum-effort hangs, more time between hangs is better. In order…
The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan 2
Tags: Finger Strength, Hangboard, quick workouts, Simplest Hangboard Plan, Training Plans
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 22 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions I released the first World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan in 2017 or so, and it became really popular right away. The reason is partially its simplicity, but also its brevity. People were just starting to carry…
Finger Strength 432 Plan – 6 session cycle – Medium, High, Low Volume
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Grip Strength, Hangboard, Training Plans
Arguing about the merits of specific isometric finger strength protocols is a prime example of not seeing the forest for the trees. We brand a certain program as superior for this or perfect for that, but the biggest part of progress is doing it over long enough periods to see a relatively permanent change in…
Intermittent Hangs for Finger Strength
Tags: Hangboard, intermittent hangs, Repeaters, Training Plans
I have been opposed to time-driven strength sessions for most of my career. This position is based on the fact that load is the most important factor in gaining strength and taking the time to provide enough load each session is key. This means that worrying about holding rest periods to a specific length should…
The World’s Simplest Hangboard Plan
Tags: Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard
TOOLS TIME CYCLE LENGTH 1 medium-sized edge + additional weight as needed 6 minutes after warm-up 8 sessions As if complicating things made them somehow more effective. If you have not been training at all, the most effective solution is to start easy. On the flip-side, if you are bogged down by timing and…
Go A Hundred – Finger Strength Plan
Tags: Finger Strength, finger training, Hangboard, Strength
Plan Length: 4-12 weeks Weekly Sessions: 3-4 Session Duration: less than 20 minutes Finger strength is indisputably useful in climbing and having more of it usually helps you get better. For many of us, enough finger strength can make up for a lack of technique or power. As much as we’d like to gain this…
6|16 Finger Strength Plan
Tags: 16, 6, Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Max Hangs, Training Plans
The Plan I wrote this program for my athletes that couldn’t handle a lack of specifics when it comes to strength training. I am still a big fan of staying “organic” in your work and rest and in loading, but here is a plan that give you some exact details on how to build sessions….
Contrast Load Hangboard Training
Tags: Bouldering Training, contrast loading, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Ladders
The Plan The debate rages whether to load your hangboard training with added weight or to go to smaller holds. Whether to hang one arm or two. Whether to train multiple grips or just one. The answer, and you won’t like it, is all of these are right, at a certain time. The only error…
Level 1 Hangboard Progression
Tags: Bouldering Training, Finger Strength, Hangboard, Training Plans
The Plan We do a lot of hangboard training with our athletes. It is a tool we use primarily as a strength builder for the fingers and hand, but also as a way of preventing injury. Ironically, though, many climbers new to using the board get hurt when they first start using it. This is…