We build all of our training plans to work for real people. Built on 4-week cycles, our plans can be assembled to address almost any training goal. Whether bouldering, big-wall climbing, redpointing, or just getting generally stronger, this is your starting point for getting better.
Slow Strength 1
Tags: easy, limited time, Steve Bechtel, Strength
by Steve Bechtel Sometimes you just want to be climbing. I get it—it’s what we all got into it for, and the training can sometimes feel like a massive distraction. These days, I’m super busy, and when I get a chance to get outside, even for just a couple of pitches, I take it…and my…
Rebuild I
Tags: basic strength, Novice Training, rebuild
By Steve Bechtel This is a training cycle of 4 weeks for climbers who have either never trained using weights and hangboards, or who have been away from climbing and training for an extended period of time. The volume and difficulty is progressed conservatively, and we are looking for the work capacity and strength to…
AIP Program – 2024 Update – ACCUMULATION CYCLE
Tags: Accumulation, AIP, Simple Programming, Yearly Plan
by Steve Bechtel The hardest thing about writing the world’s best training program is that most of us are just different enough that not everything works for all people. Which is why we can’t have a world’s best. There are infinite ways of organizing training, and the fundamental parts of it that almost all programs…
“Time Off” Training Plan
Tags: Minimal Training, Steve Bechtel, time off
by Steve Bechtel OK, It might seem weird to write a training program for time away from climbing. It also might be weird to be seeking out a training plan to do that involves “time off.” Because isn’t “time off” just time away from doing a training plan? Sure, you could do that. You have…
Winter Base I
Tags: base training, Off Season, Steve Bechtel, winter training
WINTER BASE I by Steve Bechtel The Route Climbing BASE plans are built to increase finger strength, core strength, and overall body tension, with the longer efforts of full routes in mind. This plan is appropriate for boulderers looking for a bit more capacity as well as trad climbers, though the plan emphasizes finger strength…
Foundations of Power
Tags: Micah Elconin, Power, Power Training, Training Plans
by Micah Elconin Introduction Admittedly, this was an experiment. I’ve consistently strength trained for most of my multi decade climbing career and seem to be a relatively strong human given my age, history etc. Sure, there’s always some weak links I’m looking to shore up, but as a general rule, I know that strength is…
Hang Fire
Tags: beginner training, Hang Fire, home training, Jacob Carr, Level 1, Route Climbing
by Jacob Carr Training programs, like a lot of things, are important to keep you on track to stay in line with your goals. They work a lot better than going to the gym and doing 20 minutes of abs, a few hangs, and then chatting with your friends in the bouldering gym. Not that…
Alpine Base Fitness II
Tags: Alpine Training, big wall, cardiac output, mountaineering
by Steve Bechtel Contrary to popular belief, the level 2 type programs are not “better” than level 1 programs, it’s that they are aimed at more specific fitness adaptations. Like day trading versus just investing in a diversified fund, the needs of most climbers will be best met by simpler (and easier-to-implement) programming, as in…
Alpine Base Fitness I
Tags: Alpine Training, big wall, cardiac output, mountaineering
by Steve Bechtel I’m not known for my alpine climbing accomplishments, nor for building a training company around getting people to the top of peaks, but more and more often, we’re seeing athletes that have ambitions of climbing in the mountains coming to us for training advice. The majority of training programs for alpine climbing…
General Endurance Training Plan 1
Tags: aerobic power, capacity, cardiac output, Endurance, energy systems, general endurance, High Low, Power Endurance
Here’s what you don’t want to hear. You don’t want me to tell you that the root of your problem might be a fundamental lack of athleticism, that you might be lacking the basic building blocks of not just climbing fitness, but general fitness as well. There is a bit of a yin/yang relationship when…
Pitch One – Start Here
Tags: base fitness, beginner training, Strength Training, Training Plans
This is where you should start If you haven’t been training. This is a general strength progression to help you get ready for harder and more targeted training later on. We suggest this for novice trainees, for climbers who have had more than 6 months off, and for climbers coming off a major injury. The…
Base Strength 1
Tags: Finger Strength, Off Season, Simplest Hangboard Plan, Weight Training
When I say base, I mean base. This plan is a 4-week repeatable plan that is aimed at climbers who are coming off a layoff or who have not done any strength training before. It is a 3-day per week resistance training plan, with a little bit of climbing sprinkled in. You can do more…