Training Plans

We build all of our training plans to work for real people. Built on 4-week cycles, our plans can be assembled to address almost any training goal. Whether bouldering, big-wall climbing, redpointing, or just getting generally stronger, this is your starting point for getting better.

Alactic Power Training Plan 1

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The alactic energy system is primarily responsible for extremely high-power, short duration activities. Because it relies on energy stored locally in the muscle, supplies dwindle immediately, and then are replenished via the aerobic system. This system is the one you use to do most strength and power training, and it is the one that kicks…

Preseason Build – 4 week – Logical Progression 3

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This plan is built to be done in any rock gym, and you should feel free to modify the specifics as necessary as long as the general build keeps its form. This 4-week plan (which can be extended to 6 or even 8 weeks if progress keeps coming) is ideally suited for a run-up to…

Off-Season Strength and Power – Logical Progression 2

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The Logical Progression plans are built to function either as stand-alone training with no additional climbing days, or as in-season programs done between days at the crag. This plan is built around a priority of strength and power development in the off-season from performance climbing. The intensity and difficulty of the training is such that…

Aerobic Capacity Training Plan 2A – 6 Week

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“To increase endurance, you don’t need Tabatas. You definitely don’t need Tabatas.” Pavel Tsatsouline Endurance is like money. If you don’t use a lot, you don’t need a lot. You just need enough to stay ahead of your goals. Most importantly, you never want to spend it faster than you can sustain it, or you’ll…

Aerobic Capacity 1B – 6 week

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“You talk a lot about how easy it is to ramp up your endurance,” he said. “For me it’s not that easy. It seems like it takes months to build a decent base and then all my power is gone. What am I doing wrong?” I had almost the exact same conversation twice in a…

Route Climbing Performance 1

Route Climbing Performance 1

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There are a lot of good climbing exercises out there, and there are a ton of fun climbing gyms, so why don’t we see better progress from most climbers? I don’t think it’s a lack of a good facility, nor a lack of knowledge of exercises. I think it’s a lack of practical application of…

High-Low Plan

The High-Low Plan

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The Plan This training program is designed for route climbers working on redpointing higher grades. This is the style of plan most of our climbers started using back in 2010 or so, featuring significantly reduced power-endurance training. The idea comes from the training plans designed by the legendary Charlie Francis, widely considered to be the…

route climbing b&w

Route Climbing Endurance 1

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The route climbing endurance plans are built around developing sustained power outputs for long duration. These marry the needs of most climbers, and neither focus on strength-endurance nor on the low-end and recovery-heavy training of pure endurance climbing. This program features maintenance of strength through weekly bouldering and maintenance-level finger strength training. The bulk of…

route climbing strength 1

Route Climbing Strength 1

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The Route Climbing Strength plans are built to increase finger strength, core strength, and overall body tension, with the longer efforts of full routes in mind. This plan is appropriate for boulderers looking for a bit more capacity as well as trad climbers, though the plan emphasizes finger strength at a level that is not…

Rob Pizem, working for the first free ascent of the Frank Zappa Appreciation Society, 5.13+, Escalanta Canyon, CO

In-Season Strength – Program Minimum

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These days, climbers are well aware of the need to gain strength in the off-season. Many climbers I hear from spend much of the winter allocating time to the weight room and the hangboard. Where the system can break down is when someone quits strength training cold-turkey to switch to climbing full-time. There’s no arguing…

The Simplest Climbing Training Plan

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This program features a three week alternating cycle, aimed at keeping you close to top form for long cycles. Motivated athletes are more successful; if you need some down-time between phases, this is not the plan for you.For years, a large percentage of my emails from the climbers on this site have been about periodization…

Route Climbing Endurance 2

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Once you’re strong, then next most important facet to train for hard redpointing is your aerobic capacity, or endurance base as it’s sometimes called. For the past 20 years or so, climbers have participated in Aerobic Restoration and Capillarity (ARC) sessions to address this need. Although ARC training can be of great benefit to many…

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