Program Design

Watch: Session Variability

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If you’re stuck, it’s probably not detailing out a more complex workout that is going to get you unstuck. It’s going to be doing simple things better. Most of us like the idea that each session we do is a developmental session. We seek out physical markers of having worked hard, such as sweat, weak…

Watch: Energy Systems

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In this video CS coach Joel Unema breaks down the three energy systems and how to approach training them. Movement is the basis of climbing up rocks, and in order to move, we need to supply our body with energy. Since any and all movement can occur at multiple speeds, in different directions, and over…

Watch: Climber Nutrition

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Figuring out how to fuel for your climbing, training, and recovery can be confusing. There is a ton of information out there and it is not uncommon to find multiple pieces of advice from well trained individuals that completely contradict each other. The truth is that nutrition is highly individualized and what works well for…

Watch: Realistic Resolutions

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Many of us set ambitious New Year’s resolutions, but it is uncommon to see folks who actually achieve these big goals. Why is that? What is it that prevents us from following through on these things we want so badly? In this video Steve talks about setting realistic resolutions and how to break them down…

Watch: Crag Nutrition

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Many climbers tend to not get adequate nutrition before, during, and after their climbing day. A good plan and some preparation will go a long way towards helping you perform better and recover faster. In this video Climb Strong nutrition coach Taylor Carr goes over what are some good options for meals and snacks plus…

Watch: Power Training

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We all want to feel powerful when we climb, and we often train with specific intent to increase it. The problem is that although power is a performance metric, we struggle to build training that actually directly addresses it. Power, as defined in sport science is strength applied at speed. If we built it as…

Watch: Block Programming

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In this video Steve explains some of the basic forms of periodization commonly used in training for climbing and dives into why he likes Block Programming. Block Programming eliminates some of the problems with classic or linear periodization models and allows for flexibility well suited to climbers. This model features training cycles of a highly…

Watch: Better Training Logs

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Training requires overload within the framework of both the session and the training cycle. If you don’t carefully plan overload session to session, you probably won’t see the progress you could. Just getting tired in the gym isn’t the answer. Pushing the loads the right amount higher and recovering correctly is how you really get…

Watch: Breaking Mental Barriers

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Mental skills training is often overlooked by climbers but they are incredibly important to unlock an athlete’s full potential, along with cultivating a healthy relationship with an individuals climbing. In this video Alex discusses how to break through mental barriers to climbing performance. Article: Athletic Identity: Complexity of the “Iceberg” https://tinyurl.com/yfj22a47 Book: Psychology of Enhancing…

Watch: Integrated Strength

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Everything about training for climbing is complicated. It is an exercise in compromise – focus on power and you lose endurance, too much time getting your fingers strong, and your redpoint grade drops. Over the years, there have been many creative solutions proposed to solve this problem. Many programs are more or less stolen from…

Watch: Goal Setting Part 2

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The majority of climbers have goals, but not many have a framework that will lay out a path to succeed at ambitious, long-term objectives – even though almost all of us have them! In this video Alex discusses how to structure your goal setting so you have have a clear pathway to your short term,…

Watch: Goal Setting Part 1

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The majority of climbers have goals, but not many have a framework that will lay out a path to succeed at ambitious, long-term objectives – even though almost all of us have them! In this video Alex discusses how to structure your goal setting so you have have a clear pathway to your short term,…

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