Program Design
Watch: Training While Traveling
Tags: climbing, core training, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Climbers who are committed to consistent training often follow a pretty well structured pattern in their training habits. But what do you do when you are not able to access your normal facility and training tools? Many climbers find it really stressful when their routine gets thrown off, and they are worried that they will…
Watch: Core Training
Tags: climbing, core training, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Specific Strength, Tactics
Core work is more than just making your abs tired. Here’s the thing I see a lot of: Climber swings up the wall between jugs, shaking out at the biggest ones and breathing hard; finally gets to rest stance and the whole body goes slack. Hangs on arms to “rest” but is actually increasing the…
Watch: The Strength Continuum
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Specific Strength, strength continuum, Tactics
Strength training for rock climbers is often misunderstood. There is lots of confusion around how heavy to lift, how regularly, and how it actually applies to our climbing. In this video Steve dives into the spectrum of different exercises we can program in our strength training, and in what season they might hold the most…
Watch: Redpoint Tactics #3 – Be Selfish
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 3 of…
Watch: Redpoint Tactics #2 – Get Creative
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 2 of…
Watch: Redpoint Tactics #1 – Have a Plan
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Climb Strong Coach Joel Unema is a master at climbing routes near his physical (and mental) limit. He has sent 5.14 sport and trad lines, many of them first ascents, and bouldered up to v14. Learn how to project hard climbs with tactical mastery in this new series with Joel, this is part 1 of…
Watch: Program Design
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
Many climbers and coaches think about designing a training cycle for themselves or an athlete and the first thing that comes to mind is the exercises they will program. This is intuitive and it makes sense why you would think to start there, but is completely backwards. In this video Steve lays out the four…
Watch: In-Season Fitness
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
We can train to improve or train to hold our ground. This is an important distinction, and one worth keeping in mind when you are training. Most of us think only in terms of trying to get better – to push more weight, to hold smaller crimps, etc. Most of us think in terms of…
Watch: Fundamentalist Programming
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
In the last decade or so the climbing world has become absolutely saturated with information on training practices. It is super confusing to figure out how to train effectively and how to balance this with your climbing. Everyone wants to know what is the “best” way to train, and our answer has always been the…
Watch: Introduction to Drill Work
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Replica, Simulation, Tactics
Skill development is fundamental to progression in climbing. Too often, we focus on building stamina, physical strength, or power, when just learning to move better is the simple-and long lasting-solution. In this video, Climb Strong Coach Alex Bridgewater outlines methods for successful drill sessions. This is a very useful framework for coaches designing programs and…
Watch: Specificity or Simulation?
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Replica, Simulation, Tactics
Climbing is a remarkably diverse sport. The demands of a three move boulder problem are much different than those of a 20-hour alpine ridge traverse. As such, specificity should be a pillar of our training for rock climbing. At its most basic, specificity means training that simulates the sport. But it can be broken down…
Watch: Session Variability
Tags: climbing, in-depth video, Planning, Program Design, Programming, Tactics
If you’re stuck, it’s probably not detailing out a more complex workout that is going to get you unstuck. It’s going to be doing simple things better. Most of us like the idea that each session we do is a developmental session. We seek out physical markers of having worked hard, such as sweat, weak…